Konya, inside the a-whirl of their individual

I t ‘s the cardiovascular system out of Turkey. Konya, a location off a million souls, leg squats smack in the center of Anatolia’s nuts simple, surrounded by unlock, unlimited prairie. Turkey’s extremely culturally conventional area, Konya looks to start with to-be an area of rigorous headscarves and foreboding beards, away from ostentatiously observed pieties and you will forbidden beers. But uncovering Konya is simple – why are Siria girl so beautiful having here, in the middle of your own dated area, inside the tomb regarding turquoise ceramic tiles, was Jelaluddin Rumi.

Rumi is just one of the planet’s very discover poets. During their lifestyle, and since their death in the 1273, pilgrims came so you’re able to Konya. Now, Rumi’s tomb try Turkey’s second really-went along to travelers destination following Topkapi Palace inside the Istanbul. His followers carry out (whilst still being carry out) eradicate themselves inside trance and you will dancing, sometimes rotating instance tops all day.

These types of spinning dervishes are now this new symbol out of Turkey’s tourism procedures, and you may sip teas in your Istanbul hotel lobby enjoying specific bad bloke inside a taller beige sensed hat spinning getting your activities. On real deal, even though, started heree to Konya therefore visited Turkey’s spirit. In Rumi’s terms and conditions:

There can be a massive, epic the fresh civil auditorium where it delicate whirling individual dancing is performed, and you may people level of lovely sleek-eyed mystics within the carpeting shops, cafes and you will medieval bazaars, every happy so you can ask that a private zikhr

“Whoever you’re, become Even though you could be A keen infidel, an effective pagan, or a good fireworshipper, already been Our very own brotherhood is not among despair However has actually damaged Their vows regarding repentance a hundred minutes, been.”

Almost every season given that 1983, I have already been future for the two million-or-therefore tourists whom go to Konya a-year. Some are Turkish, some Iranians (which claim Rumi as his or her individual, because the guy had written in their code and grew up in east Persia) also result in the pilgrimage.

Rather than making Konya a stop into the a coach trip, I will suggest staying for most days, taking in the feeling, food some of Turkey’s ideal mutton, enjoying their greatest Seljuk tissues and you can – maybe – falling crazy about Rumi. You could potentially fly inside cheaply regarding Istanbul, from where there is a great scruffy, atmospheric show, otherwise come by road. Konya is within easy arrived at of cavern dwellers and carpet providers from Cappadocia.

Rumi turned up right here because good son, whenever Konya had started a community for two,000 age. It actually was oriented of the Hittites, who were succeeded because of the Phrygians, then Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, new kings of Pergamon therefore the Romans, exactly who called the put Iconium. New orleans saints Paul and Barnabus each other preached right here, but by the 1071 the brand new Seljuks, good Turcoman group, was indeed in charge, as well as their architectural heritage endures.

The Karatay Medrese of 1251 are a masterpiece out of embellished tiling and you may harmonious domes. It’s today the brand new Museum away from Ceramic tiles and Ceramics, whoever material keep up with the vibrancy and you will punch that they had when first discharged. Nearby, the Ince Minarali Medrese is the Art gallery of Brick and you may Timber Sculpture, and that is a lot less dry than simply You will find managed to make it voice. Those two property whet urge for food to discover the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and the eye-popping Sahip Ata mosque: as opposed to much of the brand new Muslim industry, for the Poultry you’re encouraged to go to mosques, any type of your own religious choices.

At the junction of dated urban area as well as ugly the latest neighbor ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, new city’s vantage point, whose stunning dark pulpit and you can delicate prayer-specific niche are from 1155 (new advanced is completed in 1221). New boulevard radiating from this point provides one Rumi’s tomb, at which even more after. Rumi is recognized to Turks given that Mevlana (this new Sainted You to definitely), now Konya is during thrall to help you Mevlanamania.

Rumi is actually a mystical, an excellent Sufi saint who liked all of the religions, and whose very own religion is like

Once i earliest emerged, Mevlana’s followers, the latest Mevlevi, had been a banned organization, tolerated simply for its “folkloric moving” and you may whirlings. Meetings were held privately, dishonestly.

I mentioned eating, as well. Konya’s mutton-centric food is excellent. Etli ekmek are a lengthy, thin move-right up pizza bequeath with delicately spiced mince, and you will Konya kebab are a lamb shank, really slower roasted and supported for the a cushion away from cash which have a nice purple onion. The number one is at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. Zero 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whose soup and homemade yogurt is actually eden-produced.

Hence, remarkably provided, sufficient reason for of several glasses of nice tannic tea inside you, make your treatment for Rumi’s tomb. Your get in on the awestruck, this new interested and also the fervent. A mysterious twinkly light takes on to your tombs of Rumi and his supporters. The new walls is actually padded with calligraphy, as well as the ceilings try a beneficial kaleidoscope out of beautifully done arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is included inside the greatly padded cloth of silver, and appears to glow light and tranquility and you can compassion.

Some of the fellow pilgrims tend to understand Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Extremely just take photographs, while this is strictly forbidden. You will find individuals who weep silently, and those who laugh aloud; those who reflect right through the day, and people who rush by way of. All are gone, getting listed here is love.

Playing quietly and you may insinuating itself into your understanding is the ney, a good reed flute. It may sound particularly breathy sky, but is really the sound out of flame, which increases and falls to the all of us. That isn’t some sullen spiritual whining, nevertheless sound out of craving, from communion, of your own cardio. You’ve got they – it is soul tunes, plus it extremely provides you with. Therefore started.

Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies so you can Konya through Istanbul from Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you can Manchester, of ?219 rtn inc fees. Istanbul to help you Konya from the rail can cost you from all around ?24 get back, or just around ?36 return by bus. Resorts Balikcilar has actually room or around ?70 (while having provides cooler drinks). Resort Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) rooms up to ?20. Tickets observe the new whirling dervishes try without the fresh new traffic place of work, behind Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum at SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) arranges individual whirling and you may zikhr off ?30pp.

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